Schwarzwald | Must-dos at the Blackforest
It’s officially three years since I moved to Munich in Bayern, South Germany. As much as I love living in close proximity to the Bavarian Alps, Schwarzwald (the Black Forest in Baden-Württemberg) has been more appealing to me lately. This is to the credit of my family and friends, who offer a place to bunk and accompany me on my weekend getaways to this mountain range for its valleys, waterfalls, hiking trails, and lakes. I must admit that the abundance of black forest cakes and cherry schnapps plays a role, too. The region has 6,009 km² of potential, and I intend to explore more over the next year. Considering the current 49 euro ticket that Deutsche Bahn offers, trips to the Black Forest are budget-friendly, therapeutic, and make great pictures for your Instagram handle.
In this blog, I add my personal favourites and must-dos at Schwarzwald (Thank me later :P). By the end of 2024, I hope the list grows to be a comprehensive tourist guide for the region, especially if you are on a budget like I am ;).
Riding the sommerrodelbahn at Todtnau
I love rodelbahns! They let you cruise up to almost 60km/h through sharp turns and curves on snow-capped mountains and dense forests. I almost always take a three-ride ticket to get my serve of fun for the day. It didn’t take a lot of research to convince me to try the rodelbahn at Todtnau. What I didn’t expect was how long the ride would be. The ticket is €4 for adults and €3 for kids. It goes 850m downhill and has at least 4 loops on the way. The authorities regulate the crowd at the starting point so you don’t ride too close behind a bahn if it is slow. This facility permits up to 2 people on a single bahn (cart) as long as your combined weight does not exceed 150 kg. The thrill you get out of this place is like no other rodelbahn. At the starting point of the ride on top of the hill, a small signboard marks a narrow path. This path would lead you to a watch tower after a 20-minute steep hike. Unfortunately, I don’t recall the name. Nonetheless, the view from the tower guarantees breathtaking views of the entirety of the Blackforest. You see other famous locations like the Stockwaldturm from afar. Todtnau is well connected with public transportation (buses). If you have time to spare, you can check out the picturesque cathedral nearby or dine at the biker’s cafe famous for its burgers! There is also a waterfall in this territory that I missed :(
Hiking to Burgbachwasserfall in Bad Rippoldsau-Schapbach
I may offend many people, but Triberger Wasserfälle is overrated. It has paid entry, and there isn’t much to do. The whole experience probably takes 20 minutes at most. If you are looking for an intermediate hike coupled with a rewarding end, Burgbachwasserfall is the place to go. I am on Komoot’s free plan, and we picked the Klösterle loop. The path is clearly marked, but the elevation isn’t much. The trail is notoriously famous for its Schnapsbrunnen(Liquor fountain). It is a tiny booth loaded with beverages both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. It operates on a trust-based payment system whereby you pay your dues into a small metal box. You can already hear the waterfall when you have reached this unforgettable pitstop. A quick climb and you would see why it took my breath away. The waterfall has a single drop of 25 meters and is nestled between rocky formations and large areas of moss, setting the scene to make it look like something out of Jumanji or Temple Run (the game). I have heard this particular spot seems equally beautiful in Winter. But that’s for another day.
My sister-in-law who recommended this hike, suggested we should drive further to Alternative Wolf and Bear Park Black Forest. Here you see bears, wolfs and lynxes which were previously saved from captivity and are currently flourishing in large open areas. I would say it is much bigger than a zoo and smaller than a wildlife reserve. On some days, they even let the bears and wolfs into the same zones and let them live as they would in their natural habitat. The bears are adorable, and this was no surprise. What struck me is a wolf named Gaya who behaves like a dog would. Being cheerful and chasing you from the other side of the encounter. However, this behaviour stems from its young days as a cub when it was in captivity and shouldn’t be encouraged as per the signboard’s instructions. The facility has a café that offers several options of homemade cakes. I hope that is enough motivation to pick this area for your next day trip :).
Swimming at Titisee-Neustadt
This is probably the 10th blog you are reading recommending this tourist hotspot. To make my review of this lake different, I wish to share some first-hand information after spending an entire day at Titisee in peak summer (August). Of all the lakes I have visited in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg, this was the first time I experienced a beginner-friendly lake! I fear deep natural waters, although I swim decently in a pool. Because of this, I only take a quick dip at lakes on a regular sunny day. However, Titisee has a designated lake area for beginners (mostly kids). This way, you know the water isn’t too deep, and you could focus on learning to swim. A “beach” area also recreates the vibe of tropical beaches. All of this is at the visitors’ disposal for free. The changing room facilities are clean, and there are plenty of food joints. Do a quick walk along the lake to ride the Ferris wheel or hop on a motorboat for 25 euros. The boats are adorable and have steering control instead of the regular lever. You can imagine yourself having a nice date here. I would also recommend Titisee for its frequent flohmarkts (flea markets). They happen regularly near the Bahnhof, only a 15-minute walk from the lake (10 minutes if you are in a rush).
Freiburg
As much as I love spending my time in the middle of the woods, I don’t mind the occasional nights out in a city. My non-Munich friends know how much I brag about Munich and its clean streets and fine architecture. When my friend invited me to Freiburg, I wasn’t expecting much. To my surprise, Freiburg was my Narnia’s closet to unexpected sights and memories. As a true Freiburger would, we first made our way to the top of Wiwilíbrücke. It is the perfect spot to have coffee and chat while watching the trains pass beneath you. On the other end of the bridge, grab one of the city bikes subsidized for students and breeze through the city. It gave off the same vibes as Amsterdam with its multitude of bikes and clubs, minus the canals.
On Friday evenings, just outside the central clock tower, you see roads blocked from traffic and people taking the party to the streets (literally). These parties aren’t too extreme. Just subtle music and carefree people dancing their week’s stress away. On another street, I found myself in the middle of a silent disco! Taking your bike a little further away, you may end up at Seepark Freiburg. It spans a large area and has football grounds, watch towers, and a large lake within its boundary. When I knew the studentenwerk houses its university’s students right at the park, immediate envy grew in me. During Spring, you can find several cherry blossom trees next to the lake. My pictures don’t do justice to the beauty of Freiburg. I always find myself too occupied to whip my phone out for pictures. Since my first trip there, if you were to ask where I would choose to live apart from Munich (in Germany), I would almost immediately say Freiburg :D.
As I mentioned before, this blog is not concluded just yet. I wish to grow the list. You too could help me by listing your recommendations in the comment box below. My next item on the “Schwarzwald bucklist” is to hike up to Stöcklewaldturm, the lookout tower at Furtwangen. Thanks for reading!!
